Untul de Shea

shea

Obtinut din fructele arborelui Shea-Karité, untul de Shea se regaseste ca ingredient in majoritatea tratamentelor cosmetice din intreaga lume. Cunoscut si sub denumirea de unt de Karite, untul de shea este o crema alba, uneori spre galben auriu, cu multe substante grase. Textura untului este una fina care patrunde usor in piele, permitandu-i sa respire fara sa astupe porii. De asemenea este un ingredient perfect de protectie solara.

Compozitie: Untul de Shea este compus in principal din acid palmitic, acid stearic, acid oleic, linoleic si dintr-o fractiune nesaponificabila propie care ii confera capacitatile hidratante si emoliente. Untul de Karite contine vitaminele A, D, E si F, precum si catechine, antioxidanti care se regasesc si in ceaiul verde.

 

Clasificare:

Agentia Statelor Unite pentru Dezvoltare Internationala si alte companii  au sugerat un sistem de clasificare a untului de shea care il separa in cinci clase:

  • A (brut sau nerafinat, extras cu ajutorul apei)
  • B (rafinat)
  • C (foarte rafinat și extras cu solvenți cum ar fi hexan)
  • D (gradul cel mai scazut necontaminat)
  • E (cu contaminanti).

Gradele comerciale sunt A, B și C. Culoarea untului brut (gradul A) variază de la smantana (ca untul batut) pana la galben cenusiu. Are o aroma de nuci care este îndepartata in celelalte clase. Continutul de vitamine din untul de Shea poate fi afectat de procesele de rafinare pe masura ce se reduce nivelul de contaminare. Pana la 95% din continutul de vitamine poate fi eliminat din clasele rafinate (gradul C).

Untul de Shea nerafinat isi pastreaza neafectat intregul continut de acizi grasi si constituenti activi precum si culoarea si mirosul specific. Cu o textura diferita de cea a untului de Shea rafinat, este fin, cremos, mult mai moale, fapt ce il face sa se intinda mult mai usor. Il poti folosi in cantitati mai mari, intrucat isi pastreaza textura cremoasa si nu devine uleios.  In cosmetica se foloseste cu precadere untul de Shea rafinat, pentru a nu modifica mirosul produsului final.

Desi patrunde surprinzator de repede in piele este un filmogen de exceptie, creeaza la nivelul pielii o bariera de protectie ce pastreaza pielea hidratata si fina, redandu-i supletea si elasticitatea fara a lasa o pelicula grasa sau uleioasa.

 

Proprietati:
– antiinflamator, calmeaza iritatiile (datorita continutului de acid oleic, esteri ai acidului cinnamic);

– calmeaza iritatiile si reduce roseata;

– hraneste si hidrateaza pielea in profunzime;

– regenerator cutanat, epitelizant;

– antibacterian;

– are efect tonic;

– faciliteaza cicatrizarea;

– reda elasticitatea pielii;

– protector solar, protejeaza pielea de razele UV;

– stimuleaza sinteza de colagen;

– previne ridurile si alte semne de imbatranire;

– reda stralucirea si frumusetea parului;

– hraneste fibra capilara;

– protejeaza firele de par.

 

Recomandari:
– toate tipurile de piele, in special cea uscata;

– poate fi folosit pentru tipurile de ten acneic sau gras, pentru că nu lasă urme grase;

– riduri si semne de imbatranire;

– buze si zone delicate ale fetei;

– pielea iritata (de la scutece, epilare, barbierit);

– pielea afectata si dura sau crapata;

– eruptii cutanate, eczeme, dermatite;

– maini si piele expusa la agresiuni chimice;

– arsurile solare, leziuni superficiale;

– dureri musculare, oboseala si tensiune musculara;

– scalp uscat, par uscat, casat, vopsit;

 

 

English:

Made from Shea-Karite fruit, Shea butter is found as an ingredient in most cosmetic treatments around the world. Also known as Karite butter, shea butter is a white cream, sometimes golden yellow, with many fatty substances. The texture of the butter is a smooth one that easily penetrates the skin, allowing it to breathe without clogging the pores. It is also a perfect sunscreen ingredient.

Composition:

Shea Butter is composed mainly of palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and a non-saponifiable fraction that gives it moisturizing and emollient properties. Karite butter contains vitamins A, D, E and F as well as catechins, antioxidants found in green tea.

Classification:

The United States Agency for International Development and other companies have suggested a shea butter classification system that separates it into five classes:

  • A (raw or unrefined, extracted by water)
  • B (refined)
  • C (very refined and extracted with solvents such as hexane)
  • D (the lowest uncontaminated degree)
  • E (with contaminants).

Commercial grades are A, B and C. The color of raw butter (Grade A) varies from sour cream (like beaten butter) to grayish yellow. It has a nutty flavor that is removed in the other classes. The vitamin content of Shea Butter may be affected by refining processes as the level of contamination is reduced. Up to 95% of the vitamin content can be removed from refined classes (grade C).

Unrefined Shea Butter keeps its entire content of fatty acids and active constituents as well as its specific color and smell unaffected. With a texture different from that of refined Shea Butter, it is fine, creamy, much softer, which makes it stretch much easier. You can use it in larger quantities, as it keeps its creamy texture and does not become oily. In cosmetics, refined Shea butter is used to not change the smell of the final product.

Although it absorbs surprisingly quickly into the skin, it is an exceptional film, it creates a protective barrier to the skin that keeps the skin moist and smooth, giving it suppleness and elasticity without leaving a greasy or oily film.

 

Properties:
– anti-inflammatory, soothes irritations (due to the content of oleic acid, cinnamic acid esters);

– soothes irritations and reduces redness;

– nourishes and hydrates the skin in depth;

– skin regenerator, epithelium;

– antibacterial;

– it has tonic effect;

– Facilitates scars healing;

– Elasticity of the skin;

– solar protector, protects skin from UV rays;

– stimulates the synthesis of collagen;

– prevents wrinkles and other signs of aging;

– gives the shine and the beauty of the hair;

– nourish capillary fiber;

– protects hair.

 

Recommendations:
– all skin types, especially dry skin;

– can be used for acne or oily skin types, because it does not leave fat traces;

– wrinkles and signs of aging;

– lips and sensitive areas of the face;

– irritated skin (from diapers, epilation, shaving);

– affected and hard or cracked skin;

– rash, eczema, dermatitis;

– hands and skin exposed to chemical aggressions;

– sunburn, superficial damage;

– muscle pain, fatigue and muscle tension;

– dry scalp, dry hair, broken, dyed;

 

 

Sursa imagine: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sheabutter-virginsheabutter.jpg

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