In the last article we talked about “visagisms” and how important it is to put on makeup, so as to highlight our personality, to highlight a style. We will continue to present the main shapes
In the last article we talked about “visagisms” and how important it is to put on makeup, so as to highlight our personality, to highlight a style. We will continue to present the main shapes of the face.
The main shapes of the face
From a morphological point of view, the faces can be divided into:
- oval
- square
- lengthen
- circular
- triangular
- diamond or hexagonal
- triangular with downward base or trapezoidal.
In terms of volume, the figures fall into two categories:
- dilated type – the face has a rounded appearance, the features tend to round, the length is sometimes equal to the width. These types include round, square, diamond and triangle with a downward base.
- retracted type – the face whose shapes are more worked, has roughness and depression. The retracted type has three retraction areas:
- lateral;
- frontal;
- lower jaw.
When retracting laterally, you will notice a long face, flat or hollow temples, prominent cheekbones, deep cheeks. In frontal retraction – long face, right forehead, eyes deep in orbits – the forehead often has a depression in the middle. The types with a long and triangular face with the tip down belong to this group.
The oval type has always been considered ideal and, from the point of view of corrective makeup, it does not present problems.
The types are also studied in terms of plans, horizontal and vertical.
The horizontal plane is divided into three areas, called floors:
- upper floor: from the hair implant to the root of the nose;
- middle floor: from the root of the nose to under the nose;
- lower floor: from under the nose to under the chin.
The vertical study is performed by dividing the face into two equal areas. The horizontal and vertical study of the face is very important, the face being the most important center of expression. Any psychological manifestation, any change of mood is reflected on the face.
The contraction of the muscles causes the opening and closing of the sensory orifices and brings with it the crease, which risks transforming certain parts of the cheek.
If we divide the face in two, it can be seen that the right side is not identical with the left one. Usually the left side is weaker, thinner.
The facial expression is sometimes different. The differences vertically or horizontally are interesting from the point of view of makeup, because we have to fight, sometimes, with a small deformation produced by a certain nervous tic, only on one side of the face, or with more important asymmetries, which we will talk about. to corrective makeup, in a future article.
Some notions about the usual shapes of the face
Oval shape
As we said, the oval shape is considered ideal. All artists, painters and sculptors were inspired by this shape of the face: Gioconda, the faces on Japanese prints, those drawn by Raphael, Botticelli, Wateau, Manling, are some examples, among many others, that attest to this fact. This type is perfect for makeup because it can be adapted to any fashion.
But beware, sometimes he lacks personality.
Square shape
Makeup should give importance to the upper and middle floor, to make the lower floor look smaller.
- Eyebrows: the ascending line to the temples.
- Eyes: The eyeshadow will be placed above, under the eyebrows.
- Cheek blush: near the nose, under the eyes.
- Lips: lower lip, triangular.
Long shape
In this form, the cheek should be widened as much as possible through makeup.
- Eyebrows: horizontal line, possibly broken.
- Eyes: horizontal, slightly ascending.
- Blush: quite straight.
- Lips: drawn horizontally.
Round shape
Makeup will follow the lengthening of the face.
- Eyebrows: ascending line, not too long.
- Eyes: all ascending lines.
- Face eyeshadow: placed under the eyes, ascending line to the temples.
- Lips: round and small.
Triangular shape
Makeup follows the shape of the face, does not accentuate, does not correct.
- Eyebrows: like a wing, ie ascending line, slightly broken.
- Eyes: Almond-shaped.
- Blush: can be suppressed.
- Lips: rounded line.
Inverted triangle shape, with the base down
Sometimes it is a square face whose lower floor has become more important with aging. For correction, we will proceed as to the square shape.
Diamond shape
The makeup shown is the same as for the round face.
Small typological study
People differ, of course, from each other, but some traits seem to be common to some or others. Scientists who have studied this have tried to establish certain physiognomic types. In the following we will focus on two theories, launched by famous American and French makeup artists.
The classification of the Westmore Theory of the seven face types is as follows:
- oval – Venusian type
- round – solar or moon type
- long – the Saturnian type
- square – the Jupiter type
- diamond – the Martian type
- triangle – mercury type
- inverse triangle – the terian type
It is very likely that many of the readers of this article will be disappointed by the following classifications, in that they will not recognize their type among those listed. However, I hope that the typology problems will arouse some general interest and stimulate their desire for self-knowledge.
French theory
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The Martian type
Characteristics:
- Waist: very high;
- Attitude: provocative;
- Face shape: square;
- Mouth: thin lips, lower one thicker;
- Nose: aquiline;
- Hair: red;
- Eyes: greenish;
- Thick eyebrows;
- Skin: reddish, rosy;
- Hands: strong;
- Makeup: The lines should be sweetened, the foundation will be beige. Ascending corners of the mouth.
2. The Saturnian type
Characteristics:
- Waist: high;
- Attitude: tired;
- Face shape: long;
- Mouth: with drooping corners;
- Nose: aquiline, fallen tip;
- Hair: black, dull;
- Eyes: black, sad, clogged in the head;
- Eyebrows: arched, descending;
- Skin: bilious;
- Hands: long, bony;
- Makeup: all the lines upwards, eyebrows, eyes, mouth, to give a more optimistic look. A bright foundation will be chosen.
3. The Jupiterian type
Characteristics:
- Waist: medium;
- Attitude: majestic;
- Face shape: square;
- Mouth: large, thick lips;
- Nose: flat, wide;
- Brown hair;
- Eyes: gray;
- Eyebrows: thick, wide, thick;
- Skin: fragile;
- Hands: wide;
- Makeup: Keep this kind of balanced cheek. The dominant horizontal lines will also lengthen and thin.
4. The apollo type
Characteristics:
- Waist: high;
- Attitude: elegant;
- Face shape: oval to long;
- Mouth: beautifully drawn, precise contours;
- Nose: straight, slightly aquiline;
- Hair: light color;
- Eyes: light color;
- Eyebrows: beautifully drawn;
- Skin: pink;
- Hands: long, thin fingers;
- Makeup: emphasis will be placed on the elegant type. Transparent foundation. The eyes and mouth are emphasized in their natural form.
5. The Venusian type
Characteristics:
- Waist: quite tall;
- Attitude: careless;
- Face shape: oval, rounded as it ages;
- Mouth: round;
- Nose: fine;
- Hair: brown, wavy;
- Eyes: black, gentle, caressing eyes;
- Eyebrows: well outlined;
- Skin: matte;
- Hands: beautiful but fat;
- Makeup: Accentuate matte skin with a tan foundation. The eyes will be painted in dark colors and the mouth in bright colors. The lines of the face will be followed.
6. The moon type
Characteristics:
- Waist: medium;
- Attitude: agitated;
- Face shape: round;
- Mouth: round, corners raised;
- Nose: trumpet-shaped;
- Blond hair;
- Eyes: light blue;
- Eyebrows: distant, round;
- Skin: very pale;
- Hands: fat;
- Makeup: It will seek to balance. Lines upwards. The eyes and eyebrows will be accentuated by dark colors. Slightly tanned foundation.
7. Mercury type
Characteristics:
- Waist: small;
- Attitude: nervous;
- Face shape: triangular;
- Mouth: tight, thin lips;
- Nose: sharp;
- Hair: brown, black;
- Eyes: black, glossy;
- Eyebrows: fine, close to the eyes, very slightly arched;
- Skin: dull, sometimes bilious;
- Hands: narrow, nervous;
- Makeup: We will try to give the lines some frankness. The eyes and mouth will be enlarged. Choose a bright, pink foundation.
8. Terian type
Characteristics:
- Waist: medium;
- Attitude: heavy, short figure, blond;
- Face shape: square;
- Mouth: large, descending corners;
- Nose: wide, tip high;
- Hair: brown;
- Eyebrows: thick, straight;
- Skin: reddish;
- Hands: squares;
- Makeup: It will seek to refine the lines and soften them. Discrete tones will be chosen. There is a tendency to give some distinction to the features. A spiritual mouth will be drawn, with the corners raised.
Typology – detailed study
Pure types are very rare. Often, a Terian type has Saturnian eyebrows or a Venusian mouth. Thus, the different elements of the face must be studied, in order to obtain the desired effect through makeup.
The main forms of forehead:
-
- straight forehead;
- protruding forehead.
Different eyebrow shapes:
The study of the eyebrows is very important, because their shape is easy to correct.
-
- almost absent eyebrows;
- thin, sparse eyebrows;
- very short eyebrows;
- raised eyebrows above the nose;
- harmoniously ascending eyebrow line;
- antenna-shaped ascending line;
- horizontal line, thick eyebrows;
- downline;
- round line away from eyes;
- eyebrows close to the eyes;
- eyebrows as a circumflex accent;
- raised eyebrows on the outside;
- lowering eyebrows at the bottom;
-
Eyebrows with the ideal shape:
- quite thick;
- long;
- raised on the outside;
- in a circumflex accent.
Different eye shapes:
- distant eyes;
- very close eyes;
- bulging eyes;
- big eyes;
- eyes clogged in the head;
- round eyes;
- small eyes;
- mongolian eyes;
- ascending line;
- horizontal line;
- downline;
- much ascending.
The ideal shape of the eyes is almond-shaped, ie round and slightly elongated on the outside.
Eye color:
- black, brown eyes;
- brown eyes;
- light blue eyes;
- green eyes;
- gray eyes;
- gray-blue eyes;
- hazelnut eyes with golden sequins.
Through makeup, unexpected effects can be obtained even in terms of eye color. Of course, color changes cannot be obtained, but the shades can be changed. brown eyes take on a darkness full of mysteries, green ones can become fascinating emeralds, light blue eyes can take on a more intense shade.
Mouth and chin study:
Space between upper lip and nose:
- big;
- little;
The mouth:
- big mouth;
- small mouth;
- thin lips;
- thick lips;
- downline;
- horizontal line;
- ascending line;
- lower lip wide (thick);
- thin lower lip;
- lower lip dropped;
Ideal mouth: straight, slightly raised corners.
Chin:
- prominent chin;
- elongated chin (nonexistent).
Different nose shapes:
- small, slightly raised;
- very high tip;
- wide, with flattened wings;
- straight (Greek nose);
- big – there is a French proverb that says “a big nose has never ruined a beautiful face”;
- aquiline;
- slightly dilated nostrils.
“Reading” your face
After you have mastered the few general notions, in order to be able to put on your make-up properly, move on to “reading” your face.
Tighten your hair and sit in front of the mirror. Decide to be objective. Look at yourself without indulgence, with all the critical sense you are capable of. if what you discover is not very gratifying, do not be overwhelmed by sadness and do not become complex. make up your mind to fix the imperfections and get to work.
Write down on a piece of paper what you find. make a sheet, answering the following questions:
- What is the shape of the face? (oval, round, etc.)
- What is the dominant floor?
- Is there an asymmetry in one of the vertical areas?
- Eyebrow shape
- What is the shape and color of the eyes? (round, blue, etc.)
- What is the shape of the nose? (small, wide, etc.)
- Lip shape (thin, thick, etc.)
- What is the shape of the chin? (prominent, double chin, etc.)
- Skin color (pink, pale, etc.)
- What is the color of the hair?
After you have written down everything you have found and possess the basic notions of makeup, you are going to buy your products. Of course, the advice of a beautician would save you from unnecessary mistakes and expenses. In any case, keep in mind that if you are not too sure about yourself, it is preferable to opt for a discreet make-up. This way you will never go wrong.
Products:
- basic cream;
- foundation;
- powder;
- face blush;
- eye shadow;
- eye-liner;
- dermatograph pencil;
- mascara;
- contour pencil;
- corrective blush;
- concealer.
In the next article we will talk about the golden laws of makeup.
